Summer Pond Tips

Low Oxygen levels Kill Fish

Use an oxygen tester and air stones to keep your available

oxygen level to at least 7.0 parts per million of dissolved

oxygen in 90 degree F. water. Koi and goldfish start showing

signs of stress at oxygen levels of 4.0 ppm and will start

dying at 3.0 ppm. The higher the water temperature goes the

less oxygen that's available. Water temperatures over 90

degrees will also affect fish health so keep the temperature

under control by providing shade during the hottest parts of

the day.

It's Parasite Season

Warm water causes an increase in parasites such as anchor

worms, fish lice or flukes. Some parasites such as anchor worm

and fish lice are visible and can be treated with Dylox,

Dipterex or Masoten.

Invisible parasites such as external protozoa and flukes can

not be seen but they usually cause symptoms including extra

thick mucus, constant scratching by rubbing against objects,

flashing, or jumping. Some variations will cause a noticeable

head shaking and yawning. COntact your pond specialist for

treatments because different symptoms are indicative of

different infections. Follow label instructions at all times

or you could cause serious injury or death to your fish.

Summer Koi Feeding Tips

If you water is between 70 to 85 F. then feed a low protein

food in a quantity that is equal to 1.0% to 1.5% of total koi

body weight in pond. Estimate total koi body weight in pond

and feed recommended % of food daily based on season and water

temperature divided into intervals of about 2-2-1/2 hours.

Takes koi about 2- 2-1/2 to digest food in warmer water and

4-8 hrs in colder water when feeding is begun. So in warmer

ideal water temperatures feed 5-8 times daily the individual

portions totaling daily amount needed. In cooler temperatures

feed 1-3 times daily.

Sunblock for your Koi

Koi are not immune from sunburn, especially in shallow ponds

that get direct sunlight. Provide shade such as water lilies

or a rock overhang. Even a beach umbrella will do in a pinch.

Watch for Evaporation

Depending upon the surface area of your pond, you can lose

several inches per day to evaporation. Monitor and adjust your

water levels daily or as necessary. Remember, do not use

water with chlorine in it if you have fish!

Five Quick Tips For Healthy Summertime Water

1. Ensure that you have good mechanical and biological

filtration and that your pump will turn the pond water over

totally at least twice per day.

2. Operate the pump 24 hours a day.

3. Provide adequate shade by having 60 to 70% of the pond's

surface area covered with floating plants or other types of

shade.

4. Add water clarifiers and bottled bacteria if your water

remains cloudy even when good filtration is present.

5. Test oxygen levels daily and add air stones if levels fall

below 7 PPM.

Choosing Pond Plants   

Choosing Pond Plants

A pond without plants is like cake without icing. Pond plants fight algae, give fish a hiding place against predators, and beautify our own little slice of paradise to plunk down in at the end of a tiring day.

Don't smother your pond with plants, however. Start with half the surface area, and don't let them cover more than two-thirds to three-quarters at their growing peak. Overcrowding stresses them out, and hey - it just looks bad!

Don't let the terms "hardy" and "tropical" throw you when choosing plants for your pond. Just remember that these terms refer to the environment in which the plant has originally been adapted - and not to whether it can be thrown across the room or how well it looks in a fancy mixed drink.

Hardy pond plants, as a rule, can handle cold temperatures and frost. Of course, this is relative to your USDA agricultural zone, found here: http://www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone/ushzmap.html.

Ask your plant professional or check the plant's label before taking home that plant that does great in Hawaii, but not so great in Maine.

Tropicals, on the other hand, pretty much hold true to what they're called: They will take a nosedive if temperatures get much below 70 degrees, turning into a messy mush if it freezes.

But, ah, Grasshopper, there are ways to save even those hardy plants that aren't quite up to a northern blizzard, as well as those tender-toed tropicals with which you've fallen madly in love.

Bury hardy pond plants, pot and all, into a south-facing part of your yard and cover with a thick, warm blanket of mulch. Or put them into a garage or basement, making sure they're kept wet and have good air circulation.

Tropicals, on the other hand, need light and moisture year 'round. If you don't have a greenhouse, place tropicals in your sunniest window and keep misted, several times a day if possible, to provide the humidity they crave in order to flourish. "Grow lights" do a fabulous fake of the sun, however, and many tropical pond plants thrive under them.

Marginal pond plants - those that grow around the edges, or margins, of a pond - can be either hardy or tropical. Some hardy marginals are cattail, plantain, and rush. Tropical marginals include taro, spider lily, and water hibiscus. Of course there are legions more to lust after in both hardy and tropical marginals. Place marginals with their pot tops one to six inches under water. Very tall plants, like cattail, can be moved as deep as a foot beneath the surface one they've gotten full-sized.

Water lilies, however, like their water deep - between 18 and 30 inches - after starting the season in the 6"-12" shallower end. This gives them a nice, springtime shot of sunshine to get going again. And when the plant pro recommends those funny-looking pots with all the little holes in them, go for it. Pond plants poke their toes (roots) through them to develop tiny, nutrient-extracting feeder roots. Meshing with one another, these roots provide stability and protection against wind, kids, pets, and adults that have a tendency to stumble into them.

Fertilize pond plants when they need them. "Ha!" you say. "And when is that?" Well, go back to your plant pro, the Internet, or the plant label you so wisely saved. Each plant may have different requirements, but one rule of thumb: Plants need much more fertilizer in warm-weather months than when it's cool outside.

So go have fun with your pond and your plants!

Choosing Pond Plants   

Summer Pond Tips

Low Oxygen levels Kill Fish

Use an oxygen tester and air stones to keep your available

oxygen level to at least 7.0 parts per million of dissolved

oxygen in 90 degree F. water. Koi and goldfish start showing

signs of stress at oxygen levels of 4.0 ppm and will start

dying at 3.0 ppm. The higher the water temperature goes the

less oxygen that's available. Water temperatures over 90

degrees will also affect fish health so keep the temperature

under control by providing shade during the hottest parts of

the day.

It's Parasite Season

Warm water causes an increase in parasites such as anchor

worms, fish lice or flukes. Some parasites such as anchor worm

and fish lice are visible and can be treated with Dylox,

Dipterex or Masoten.

Invisible parasites such as external protozoa and flukes can

not be seen but they usually cause symptoms including extra

thick mucus, constant scratching by rubbing against objects,

flashing, or jumping. Some variations will cause a noticeable

head shaking and yawning. COntact your pond specialist for

treatments because different symptoms are indicative of

different infections. Follow label instructions at all times

or you could cause serious injury or death to your fish.

Summer Koi Feeding Tips

If you water is between 70 to 85 F. then feed a low protein

food in a quantity that is equal to 1.0% to 1.5% of total koi

body weight in pond. Estimate total koi body weight in pond

and feed recommended % of food daily based on season and water

temperature divided into intervals of about 2-2-1/2 hours.

Takes koi about 2- 2-1/2 to digest food in warmer water and

4-8 hrs in colder water when feeding is begun. So in warmer

ideal water temperatures feed 5-8 times daily the individual

portions totaling daily amount needed. In cooler temperatures

feed 1-3 times daily.

Sunblock for your Koi

Koi are not immune from sunburn, especially in shallow ponds

that get direct sunlight. Provide shade such as water lilies

or a rock overhang. Even a beach umbrella will do in a pinch.

Watch for Evaporation

Depending upon the surface area of your pond, you can lose

several inches per day to evaporation. Monitor and adjust your

water levels daily or as necessary. Remember, do not use

water with chlorine in it if you have fish!

Five Quick Tips For Healthy Summertime Water

1. Ensure that you have good mechanical and biological

filtration and that your pump will turn the pond water over

totally at least twice per day.

2. Operate the pump 24 hours a day.

3. Provide adequate shade by having 60 to 70% of the pond's

surface area covered with floating plants or other types of

shade.

4. Add water clarifiers and bottled bacteria if your water

remains cloudy even when good filtration is present.

5. Test oxygen levels daily and add air stones if levels fall

below 7 PPM.

Choosing Pond Plants   

Summer Pond Tips

Low Oxygen levels Kill Fish

Use an oxygen tester and air stones to keep your available

oxygen level to at least 7.0 parts per million of dissolved

oxygen in 90 degree F. water. Koi and goldfish start showing

signs of stress at oxygen levels of 4.0 ppm and will start

dying at 3.0 ppm. The higher the water temperature goes the

less oxygen that's available. Water temperatures over 90

degrees will also affect fish health so keep the temperature

under control by providing shade during the hottest parts of

the day.

It's Parasite Season

Warm water causes an increase in parasites such as anchor

worms, fish lice or flukes. Some parasites such as anchor worm

and fish lice are visible and can be treated with Dylox,

Dipterex or Masoten.

Invisible parasites such as external protozoa and flukes can

not be seen but they usually cause symptoms including extra

thick mucus, constant scratching by rubbing against objects,

flashing, or jumping. Some variations will cause a noticeable

head shaking and yawning. COntact your pond specialist for

treatments because different symptoms are indicative of

different infections. Follow label instructions at all times

or you could cause serious injury or death to your fish.

Summer Koi Feeding Tips

If you water is between 70 to 85 F. then feed a low protein

food in a quantity that is equal to 1.0% to 1.5% of total koi

body weight in pond. Estimate total koi body weight in pond

and feed recommended % of food daily based on season and water

temperature divided into intervals of about 2-2-1/2 hours.

Takes koi about 2- 2-1/2 to digest food in warmer water and

4-8 hrs in colder water when feeding is begun. So in warmer

ideal water temperatures feed 5-8 times daily the individual

portions totaling daily amount needed. In cooler temperatures

feed 1-3 times daily.

Sunblock for your Koi

Koi are not immune from sunburn, especially in shallow ponds

that get direct sunlight. Provide shade such as water lilies

or a rock overhang. Even a beach umbrella will do in a pinch.

Watch for Evaporation

Depending upon the surface area of your pond, you can lose

several inches per day to evaporation. Monitor and adjust your

water levels daily or as necessary. Remember, do not use

water with chlorine in it if you have fish!

Five Quick Tips For Healthy Summertime Water

1. Ensure that you have good mechanical and biological

filtration and that your pump will turn the pond water over

totally at least twice per day.

2. Operate the pump 24 hours a day.

3. Provide adequate shade by having 60 to 70% of the pond's

surface area covered with floating plants or other types of

shade.

4. Add water clarifiers and bottled bacteria if your water

remains cloudy even when good filtration is present.

5. Test oxygen levels daily and add air stones if levels fall

below 7 PPM.

Choosing Pond Plants   

Summer Pond Tips

Low Oxygen levels Kill Fish

Use an oxygen tester and air stones to keep your available

oxygen level to at least 7.0 parts per million of dissolved

oxygen in 90 degree F. water. Koi and goldfish start showing

signs of stress at oxygen levels of 4.0 ppm and will start

dying at 3.0 ppm. The higher the water temperature goes the

less oxygen that's available. Water temperatures over 90

degrees will also affect fish health so keep the temperature

under control by providing shade during the hottest parts of

the day.

It's Parasite Season

Warm water causes an increase in parasites such as anchor

worms, fish lice or flukes. Some parasites such as anchor worm

and fish lice are visible and can be treated with Dylox,

Dipterex or Masoten.

Invisible parasites such as external protozoa and flukes can

not be seen but they usually cause symptoms including extra

thick mucus, constant scratching by rubbing against objects,

flashing, or jumping. Some variations will cause a noticeable

head shaking and yawning. COntact your pond specialist for

treatments because different symptoms are indicative of

different infections. Follow label instructions at all times

or you could cause serious injury or death to your fish.

Summer Koi Feeding Tips

If you water is between 70 to 85 F. then feed a low protein

food in a quantity that is equal to 1.0% to 1.5% of total koi

body weight in pond. Estimate total koi body weight in pond

and feed recommended % of food daily based on season and water

temperature divided into intervals of about 2-2-1/2 hours.

Takes koi about 2- 2-1/2 to digest food in warmer water and

4-8 hrs in colder water when feeding is begun. So in warmer

ideal water temperatures feed 5-8 times daily the individual

portions totaling daily amount needed. In cooler temperatures

feed 1-3 times daily.

Sunblock for your Koi

Koi are not immune from sunburn, especially in shallow ponds

that get direct sunlight. Provide shade such as water lilies

or a rock overhang. Even a beach umbrella will do in a pinch.

Watch for Evaporation

Depending upon the surface area of your pond, you can lose

several inches per day to evaporation. Monitor and adjust your

water levels daily or as necessary. Remember, do not use

water with chlorine in it if you have fish!

Five Quick Tips For Healthy Summertime Water

1. Ensure that you have good mechanical and biological

filtration and that your pump will turn the pond water over

totally at least twice per day.

2. Operate the pump 24 hours a day.

3. Provide adequate shade by having 60 to 70% of the pond's

surface area covered with floating plants or other types of

shade.

4. Add water clarifiers and bottled bacteria if your water

remains cloudy even when good filtration is present.

5. Test oxygen levels daily and add air stones if levels fall

below 7 PPM.

Choosing Pond Plants   

Summer Pond Tips

Low Oxygen levels Kill Fish

Use an oxygen tester and air stones to keep your available

oxygen level to at least 7.0 parts per million of dissolved

oxygen in 90 degree F. water. Koi and goldfish start showing

signs of stress at oxygen levels of 4.0 ppm and will start

dying at 3.0 ppm. The higher the water temperature goes the

less oxygen that's available. Water temperatures over 90

degrees will also affect fish health so keep the temperature

under control by providing shade during the hottest parts of

the day.

It's Parasite Season

Warm water causes an increase in parasites such as anchor

worms, fish lice or flukes. Some parasites such as anchor worm

and fish lice are visible and can be treated with Dylox,

Dipterex or Masoten.

Invisible parasites such as external protozoa and flukes can

not be seen but they usually cause symptoms including extra

thick mucus, constant scratching by rubbing against objects,

flashing, or jumping. Some variations will cause a noticeable

head shaking and yawning. COntact your pond specialist for

treatments because different symptoms are indicative of

different infections. Follow label instructions at all times

or you could cause serious injury or death to your fish.

Summer Koi Feeding Tips

If you water is between 70 to 85 F. then feed a low protein

food in a quantity that is equal to 1.0% to 1.5% of total koi

body weight in pond. Estimate total koi body weight in pond

and feed recommended % of food daily based on season and water

temperature divided into intervals of about 2-2-1/2 hours.

Takes koi about 2- 2-1/2 to digest food in warmer water and

4-8 hrs in colder water when feeding is begun. So in warmer

ideal water temperatures feed 5-8 times daily the individual

portions totaling daily amount needed. In cooler temperatures

feed 1-3 times daily.

Sunblock for your Koi

Koi are not immune from sunburn, especially in shallow ponds

that get direct sunlight. Provide shade such as water lilies

or a rock overhang. Even a beach umbrella will do in a pinch.

Watch for Evaporation

Depending upon the surface area of your pond, you can lose

several inches per day to evaporation. Monitor and adjust your

water levels daily or as necessary. Remember, do not use

water with chlorine in it if you have fish!

Five Quick Tips For Healthy Summertime Water

1. Ensure that you have good mechanical and biological

filtration and that your pump will turn the pond water over

totally at least twice per day.

2. Operate the pump 24 hours a day.

3. Provide adequate shade by having 60 to 70% of the pond's

surface area covered with floating plants or other types of

shade.

4. Add water clarifiers and bottled bacteria if your water

remains cloudy even when good filtration is present.

5. Test oxygen levels daily and add air stones if levels fall

below 7 PPM.

Choosing Pond Plants   

Choosing Pond Plants

A pond without plants is like cake without icing. Pond plants fight algae, give fish a hiding place against predators, and beautify our own little slice of paradise to plunk down in at the end of a tiring day.

Don't smother your pond with plants, however. Start with half the surface area, and don't let them cover more than two-thirds to three-quarters at their growing peak. Overcrowding stresses them out, and hey - it just looks bad!

Don't let the terms "hardy" and "tropical" throw you when choosing plants for your pond. Just remember that these terms refer to the environment in which the plant has originally been adapted - and not to whether it can be thrown across the room or how well it looks in a fancy mixed drink.

Hardy pond plants, as a rule, can handle cold temperatures and frost. Of course, this is relative to your USDA agricultural zone, found here: http://www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone/ushzmap.html.

Ask your plant professional or check the plant's label before taking home that plant that does great in Hawaii, but not so great in Maine.

Tropicals, on the other hand, pretty much hold true to what they're called: They will take a nosedive if temperatures get much below 70 degrees, turning into a messy mush if it freezes.

But, ah, Grasshopper, there are ways to save even those hardy plants that aren't quite up to a northern blizzard, as well as those tender-toed tropicals with which you've fallen madly in love.

Bury hardy pond plants, pot and all, into a south-facing part of your yard and cover with a thick, warm blanket of mulch. Or put them into a garage or basement, making sure they're kept wet and have good air circulation.

Tropicals, on the other hand, need light and moisture year 'round. If you don't have a greenhouse, place tropicals in your sunniest window and keep misted, several times a day if possible, to provide the humidity they crave in order to flourish. "Grow lights" do a fabulous fake of the sun, however, and many tropical pond plants thrive under them.

Marginal pond plants - those that grow around the edges, or margins, of a pond - can be either hardy or tropical. Some hardy marginals are cattail, plantain, and rush. Tropical marginals include taro, spider lily, and water hibiscus. Of course there are legions more to lust after in both hardy and tropical marginals. Place marginals with their pot tops one to six inches under water. Very tall plants, like cattail, can be moved as deep as a foot beneath the surface one they've gotten full-sized.

Water lilies, however, like their water deep - between 18 and 30 inches - after starting the season in the 6"-12" shallower end. This gives them a nice, springtime shot of sunshine to get going again. And when the plant pro recommends those funny-looking pots with all the little holes in them, go for it. Pond plants poke their toes (roots) through them to develop tiny, nutrient-extracting feeder roots. Meshing with one another, these roots provide stability and protection against wind, kids, pets, and adults that have a tendency to stumble into them.

Fertilize pond plants when they need them. "Ha!" you say. "And when is that?" Well, go back to your plant pro, the Internet, or the plant label you so wisely saved. Each plant may have different requirements, but one rule of thumb: Plants need much more fertilizer in warm-weather months than when it's cool outside.

So go have fun with your pond and your plants!

Choosing Pond Plants   

Choosing Pond Plants

A pond without plants is like cake without icing. Pond plants fight algae, give fish a hiding place against predators, and beautify our own little slice of paradise to plunk down in at the end of a tiring day.

Don't smother your pond with plants, however. Start with half the surface area, and don't let them cover more than two-thirds to three-quarters at their growing peak. Overcrowding stresses them out, and hey - it just looks bad!

Don't let the terms "hardy" and "tropical" throw you when choosing plants for your pond. Just remember that these terms refer to the environment in which the plant has originally been adapted - and not to whether it can be thrown across the room or how well it looks in a fancy mixed drink.

Hardy pond plants, as a rule, can handle cold temperatures and frost. Of course, this is relative to your USDA agricultural zone, found here: http://www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone/ushzmap.html.

Ask your plant professional or check the plant's label before taking home that plant that does great in Hawaii, but not so great in Maine.

Tropicals, on the other hand, pretty much hold true to what they're called: They will take a nosedive if temperatures get much below 70 degrees, turning into a messy mush if it freezes.

But, ah, Grasshopper, there are ways to save even those hardy plants that aren't quite up to a northern blizzard, as well as those tender-toed tropicals with which you've fallen madly in love.

Bury hardy pond plants, pot and all, into a south-facing part of your yard and cover with a thick, warm blanket of mulch. Or put them into a garage or basement, making sure they're kept wet and have good air circulation.

Tropicals, on the other hand, need light and moisture year 'round. If you don't have a greenhouse, place tropicals in your sunniest window and keep misted, several times a day if possible, to provide the humidity they crave in order to flourish. "Grow lights" do a fabulous fake of the sun, however, and many tropical pond plants thrive under them.

Marginal pond plants - those that grow around the edges, or margins, of a pond - can be either hardy or tropical. Some hardy marginals are cattail, plantain, and rush. Tropical marginals include taro, spider lily, and water hibiscus. Of course there are legions more to lust after in both hardy and tropical marginals. Place marginals with their pot tops one to six inches under water. Very tall plants, like cattail, can be moved as deep as a foot beneath the surface one they've gotten full-sized.

Water lilies, however, like their water deep - between 18 and 30 inches - after starting the season in the 6"-12" shallower end. This gives them a nice, springtime shot of sunshine to get going again. And when the plant pro recommends those funny-looking pots with all the little holes in them, go for it. Pond plants poke their toes (roots) through them to develop tiny, nutrient-extracting feeder roots. Meshing with one another, these roots provide stability and protection against wind, kids, pets, and adults that have a tendency to stumble into them.

Fertilize pond plants when they need them. "Ha!" you say. "And when is that?" Well, go back to your plant pro, the Internet, or the plant label you so wisely saved. Each plant may have different requirements, but one rule of thumb: Plants need much more fertilizer in warm-weather months than when it's cool outside.

So go have fun with your pond and your plants!

Choosing Pond Plants   

Summer Pond Tips

Low Oxygen levels Kill Fish

Use an oxygen tester and air stones to keep your available

oxygen level to at least 7.0 parts per million of dissolved

oxygen in 90 degree F. water. Koi and goldfish start showing

signs of stress at oxygen levels of 4.0 ppm and will start

dying at 3.0 ppm. The higher the water temperature goes the

less oxygen that's available. Water temperatures over 90

degrees will also affect fish health so keep the temperature

under control by providing shade during the hottest parts of

the day.

It's Parasite Season

Warm water causes an increase in parasites such as anchor

worms, fish lice or flukes. Some parasites such as anchor worm

and fish lice are visible and can be treated with Dylox,

Dipterex or Masoten.

Invisible parasites such as external protozoa and flukes can

not be seen but they usually cause symptoms including extra

thick mucus, constant scratching by rubbing against objects,

flashing, or jumping. Some variations will cause a noticeable

head shaking and yawning. COntact your pond specialist for

treatments because different symptoms are indicative of

different infections. Follow label instructions at all times

or you could cause serious injury or death to your fish.

Summer Koi Feeding Tips

If you water is between 70 to 85 F. then feed a low protein

food in a quantity that is equal to 1.0% to 1.5% of total koi

body weight in pond. Estimate total koi body weight in pond

and feed recommended % of food daily based on season and water

temperature divided into intervals of about 2-2-1/2 hours.

Takes koi about 2- 2-1/2 to digest food in warmer water and

4-8 hrs in colder water when feeding is begun. So in warmer

ideal water temperatures feed 5-8 times daily the individual

portions totaling daily amount needed. In cooler temperatures

feed 1-3 times daily.

Sunblock for your Koi

Koi are not immune from sunburn, especially in shallow ponds

that get direct sunlight. Provide shade such as water lilies

or a rock overhang. Even a beach umbrella will do in a pinch.

Watch for Evaporation

Depending upon the surface area of your pond, you can lose

several inches per day to evaporation. Monitor and adjust your

water levels daily or as necessary. Remember, do not use

water with chlorine in it if you have fish!

Five Quick Tips For Healthy Summertime Water

1. Ensure that you have good mechanical and biological

filtration and that your pump will turn the pond water over

totally at least twice per day.

2. Operate the pump 24 hours a day.

3. Provide adequate shade by having 60 to 70% of the pond's

surface area covered with floating plants or other types of

shade.

4. Add water clarifiers and bottled bacteria if your water

remains cloudy even when good filtration is present.

5. Test oxygen levels daily and add air stones if levels fall

below 7 PPM.

Choosing Pond Plants   

Choosing Pond Plants

A pond without plants is like cake without icing. Pond plants fight algae, give fish a hiding place against predators, and beautify our own little slice of paradise to plunk down in at the end of a tiring day.

Don't smother your pond with plants, however. Start with half the surface area, and don't let them cover more than two-thirds to three-quarters at their growing peak. Overcrowding stresses them out, and hey - it just looks bad!

Don't let the terms "hardy" and "tropical" throw you when choosing plants for your pond. Just remember that these terms refer to the environment in which the plant has originally been adapted - and not to whether it can be thrown across the room or how well it looks in a fancy mixed drink.

Hardy pond plants, as a rule, can handle cold temperatures and frost. Of course, this is relative to your USDA agricultural zone, found here: http://www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone/ushzmap.html.

Ask your plant professional or check the plant's label before taking home that plant that does great in Hawaii, but not so great in Maine.

Tropicals, on the other hand, pretty much hold true to what they're called: They will take a nosedive if temperatures get much below 70 degrees, turning into a messy mush if it freezes.

But, ah, Grasshopper, there are ways to save even those hardy plants that aren't quite up to a northern blizzard, as well as those tender-toed tropicals with which you've fallen madly in love.

Bury hardy pond plants, pot and all, into a south-facing part of your yard and cover with a thick, warm blanket of mulch. Or put them into a garage or basement, making sure they're kept wet and have good air circulation.

Tropicals, on the other hand, need light and moisture year 'round. If you don't have a greenhouse, place tropicals in your sunniest window and keep misted, several times a day if possible, to provide the humidity they crave in order to flourish. "Grow lights" do a fabulous fake of the sun, however, and many tropical pond plants thrive under them.

Marginal pond plants - those that grow around the edges, or margins, of a pond - can be either hardy or tropical. Some hardy marginals are cattail, plantain, and rush. Tropical marginals include taro, spider lily, and water hibiscus. Of course there are legions more to lust after in both hardy and tropical marginals. Place marginals with their pot tops one to six inches under water. Very tall plants, like cattail, can be moved as deep as a foot beneath the surface one they've gotten full-sized.

Water lilies, however, like their water deep - between 18 and 30 inches - after starting the season in the 6"-12" shallower end. This gives them a nice, springtime shot of sunshine to get going again. And when the plant pro recommends those funny-looking pots with all the little holes in them, go for it. Pond plants poke their toes (roots) through them to develop tiny, nutrient-extracting feeder roots. Meshing with one another, these roots provide stability and protection against wind, kids, pets, and adults that have a tendency to stumble into them.

Fertilize pond plants when they need them. "Ha!" you say. "And when is that?" Well, go back to your plant pro, the Internet, or the plant label you so wisely saved. Each plant may have different requirements, but one rule of thumb: Plants need much more fertilizer in warm-weather months than when it's cool outside.

So go have fun with your pond and your plants!

Choosing Pond Plants   

Choosing Pond Plants

A pond without plants is like cake without icing. Pond plants fight algae, give fish a hiding place against predators, and beautify our own little slice of paradise to plunk down in at the end of a tiring day.

Don't smother your pond with plants, however. Start with half the surface area, and don't let them cover more than two-thirds to three-quarters at their growing peak. Overcrowding stresses them out, and hey - it just looks bad!

Don't let the terms "hardy" and "tropical" throw you when choosing plants for your pond. Just remember that these terms refer to the environment in which the plant has originally been adapted - and not to whether it can be thrown across the room or how well it looks in a fancy mixed drink.

Hardy pond plants, as a rule, can handle cold temperatures and frost. Of course, this is relative to your USDA agricultural zone, found here: http://www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone/ushzmap.html.

Ask your plant professional or check the plant's label before taking home that plant that does great in Hawaii, but not so great in Maine.

Tropicals, on the other hand, pretty much hold true to what they're called: They will take a nosedive if temperatures get much below 70 degrees, turning into a messy mush if it freezes.

But, ah, Grasshopper, there are ways to save even those hardy plants that aren't quite up to a northern blizzard, as well as those tender-toed tropicals with which you've fallen madly in love.

Bury hardy pond plants, pot and all, into a south-facing part of your yard and cover with a thick, warm blanket of mulch. Or put them into a garage or basement, making sure they're kept wet and have good air circulation.

Tropicals, on the other hand, need light and moisture year 'round. If you don't have a greenhouse, place tropicals in your sunniest window and keep misted, several times a day if possible, to provide the humidity they crave in order to flourish. "Grow lights" do a fabulous fake of the sun, however, and many tropical pond plants thrive under them.

Marginal pond plants - those that grow around the edges, or margins, of a pond - can be either hardy or tropical. Some hardy marginals are cattail, plantain, and rush. Tropical marginals include taro, spider lily, and water hibiscus. Of course there are legions more to lust after in both hardy and tropical marginals. Place marginals with their pot tops one to six inches under water. Very tall plants, like cattail, can be moved as deep as a foot beneath the surface one they've gotten full-sized.

Water lilies, however, like their water deep - between 18 and 30 inches - after starting the season in the 6"-12" shallower end. This gives them a nice, springtime shot of sunshine to get going again. And when the plant pro recommends those funny-looking pots with all the little holes in them, go for it. Pond plants poke their toes (roots) through them to develop tiny, nutrient-extracting feeder roots. Meshing with one another, these roots provide stability and protection against wind, kids, pets, and adults that have a tendency to stumble into them.

Fertilize pond plants when they need them. "Ha!" you say. "And when is that?" Well, go back to your plant pro, the Internet, or the plant label you so wisely saved. Each plant may have different requirements, but one rule of thumb: Plants need much more fertilizer in warm-weather months than when it's cool outside.

So go have fun with your pond and your plants!

Choosing Pond Plants   

Choosing Pond Plants

A pond without plants is like cake without icing. Pond plants fight algae, give fish a hiding place against predators, and beautify our own little slice of paradise to plunk down in at the end of a tiring day.

Don't smother your pond with plants, however. Start with half the surface area, and don't let them cover more than two-thirds to three-quarters at their growing peak. Overcrowding stresses them out, and hey - it just looks bad!

Don't let the terms "hardy" and "tropical" throw you when choosing plants for your pond. Just remember that these terms refer to the environment in which the plant has originally been adapted - and not to whether it can be thrown across the room or how well it looks in a fancy mixed drink.

Hardy pond plants, as a rule, can handle cold temperatures and frost. Of course, this is relative to your USDA agricultural zone, found here: http://www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone/ushzmap.html.

Ask your plant professional or check the plant's label before taking home that plant that does great in Hawaii, but not so great in Maine.

Tropicals, on the other hand, pretty much hold true to what they're called: They will take a nosedive if temperatures get much below 70 degrees, turning into a messy mush if it freezes.

But, ah, Grasshopper, there are ways to save even those hardy plants that aren't quite up to a northern blizzard, as well as those tender-toed tropicals with which you've fallen madly in love.

Bury hardy pond plants, pot and all, into a south-facing part of your yard and cover with a thick, warm blanket of mulch. Or put them into a garage or basement, making sure they're kept wet and have good air circulation.

Tropicals, on the other hand, need light and moisture year 'round. If you don't have a greenhouse, place tropicals in your sunniest window and keep misted, several times a day if possible, to provide the humidity they crave in order to flourish. "Grow lights" do a fabulous fake of the sun, however, and many tropical pond plants thrive under them.

Marginal pond plants - those that grow around the edges, or margins, of a pond - can be either hardy or tropical. Some hardy marginals are cattail, plantain, and rush. Tropical marginals include taro, spider lily, and water hibiscus. Of course there are legions more to lust after in both hardy and tropical marginals. Place marginals with their pot tops one to six inches under water. Very tall plants, like cattail, can be moved as deep as a foot beneath the surface one they've gotten full-sized.

Water lilies, however, like their water deep - between 18 and 30 inches - after starting the season in the 6"-12" shallower end. This gives them a nice, springtime shot of sunshine to get going again. And when the plant pro recommends those funny-looking pots with all the little holes in them, go for it. Pond plants poke their toes (roots) through them to develop tiny, nutrient-extracting feeder roots. Meshing with one another, these roots provide stability and protection against wind, kids, pets, and adults that have a tendency to stumble into them.

Fertilize pond plants when they need them. "Ha!" you say. "And when is that?" Well, go back to your plant pro, the Internet, or the plant label you so wisely saved. Each plant may have different requirements, but one rule of thumb: Plants need much more fertilizer in warm-weather months than when it's cool outside.

So go have fun with your pond and your plants!

Choosing Pond Plants   

Summer Pond Tips

Low Oxygen levels Kill Fish

Use an oxygen tester and air stones to keep your available

oxygen level to at least 7.0 parts per million of dissolved

oxygen in 90 degree F. water. Koi and goldfish start showing

signs of stress at oxygen levels of 4.0 ppm and will start

dying at 3.0 ppm. The higher the water temperature goes the

less oxygen that's available. Water temperatures over 90

degrees will also affect fish health so keep the temperature

under control by providing shade during the hottest parts of

the day.

It's Parasite Season

Warm water causes an increase in parasites such as anchor

worms, fish lice or flukes. Some parasites such as anchor worm

and fish lice are visible and can be treated with Dylox,

Dipterex or Masoten.

Invisible parasites such as external protozoa and flukes can

not be seen but they usually cause symptoms including extra

thick mucus, constant scratching by rubbing against objects,

flashing, or jumping. Some variations will cause a noticeable

head shaking and yawning. COntact your pond specialist for

treatments because different symptoms are indicative of

different infections. Follow label instructions at all times

or you could cause serious injury or death to your fish.

Summer Koi Feeding Tips

If you water is between 70 to 85 F. then feed a low protein

food in a quantity that is equal to 1.0% to 1.5% of total koi

body weight in pond. Estimate total koi body weight in pond

and feed recommended % of food daily based on season and water

temperature divided into intervals of about 2-2-1/2 hours.

Takes koi about 2- 2-1/2 to digest food in warmer water and

4-8 hrs in colder water when feeding is begun. So in warmer

ideal water temperatures feed 5-8 times daily the individual

portions totaling daily amount needed. In cooler temperatures

feed 1-3 times daily.

Sunblock for your Koi

Koi are not immune from sunburn, especially in shallow ponds

that get direct sunlight. Provide shade such as water lilies

or a rock overhang. Even a beach umbrella will do in a pinch.

Watch for Evaporation

Depending upon the surface area of your pond, you can lose

several inches per day to evaporation. Monitor and adjust your

water levels daily or as necessary. Remember, do not use

water with chlorine in it if you have fish!

Five Quick Tips For Healthy Summertime Water

1. Ensure that you have good mechanical and biological

filtration and that your pump will turn the pond water over

totally at least twice per day.

2. Operate the pump 24 hours a day.

3. Provide adequate shade by having 60 to 70% of the pond's

surface area covered with floating plants or other types of

shade.

4. Add water clarifiers and bottled bacteria if your water

remains cloudy even when good filtration is present.

5. Test oxygen levels daily and add air stones if levels fall

below 7 PPM.

Choosing Pond Plants   

Summer Pond Tips

Low Oxygen levels Kill Fish

Use an oxygen tester and air stones to keep your available

oxygen level to at least 7.0 parts per million of dissolved

oxygen in 90 degree F. water. Koi and goldfish start showing

signs of stress at oxygen levels of 4.0 ppm and will start

dying at 3.0 ppm. The higher the water temperature goes the

less oxygen that's available. Water temperatures over 90

degrees will also affect fish health so keep the temperature

under control by providing shade during the hottest parts of

the day.

It's Parasite Season

Warm water causes an increase in parasites such as anchor

worms, fish lice or flukes. Some parasites such as anchor worm

and fish lice are visible and can be treated with Dylox,

Dipterex or Masoten.

Invisible parasites such as external protozoa and flukes can

not be seen but they usually cause symptoms including extra

thick mucus, constant scratching by rubbing against objects,

flashing, or jumping. Some variations will cause a noticeable

head shaking and yawning. COntact your pond specialist for

treatments because different symptoms are indicative of

different infections. Follow label instructions at all times

or you could cause serious injury or death to your fish.

Summer Koi Feeding Tips

If you water is between 70 to 85 F. then feed a low protein

food in a quantity that is equal to 1.0% to 1.5% of total koi

body weight in pond. Estimate total koi body weight in pond

and feed recommended % of food daily based on season and water

temperature divided into intervals of about 2-2-1/2 hours.

Takes koi about 2- 2-1/2 to digest food in warmer water and

4-8 hrs in colder water when feeding is begun. So in warmer

ideal water temperatures feed 5-8 times daily the individual

portions totaling daily amount needed. In cooler temperatures

feed 1-3 times daily.

Sunblock for your Koi

Koi are not immune from sunburn, especially in shallow ponds

that get direct sunlight. Provide shade such as water lilies

or a rock overhang. Even a beach umbrella will do in a pinch.

Watch for Evaporation

Depending upon the surface area of your pond, you can lose

several inches per day to evaporation. Monitor and adjust your

water levels daily or as necessary. Remember, do not use

water with chlorine in it if you have fish!

Five Quick Tips For Healthy Summertime Water

1. Ensure that you have good mechanical and biological

filtration and that your pump will turn the pond water over

totally at least twice per day.

2. Operate the pump 24 hours a day.

3. Provide adequate shade by having 60 to 70% of the pond's

surface area covered with floating plants or other types of

shade.

4. Add water clarifiers and bottled bacteria if your water

remains cloudy even when good filtration is present.

5. Test oxygen levels daily and add air stones if levels fall

below 7 PPM.

Choosing Pond Plants